As one of the first samples I created I focoused on getting a wide variety of textures within this sample. I then used a shimmer thread to finish the sample of, creating the shape of a butterfly wing
Thee idea for this sample I took from the eye research. layering two fabrics. organza and tafatah I stitched a circle in the centre using the domestic sewing machine, then using a zigzag stitch filled what would be the centre of the eye. I then cut into the sample as you would do with sashiko.
The inspiration behind this particular sample was the spine and its shapes. layering fabrics such as organza, felt, netting and cotton i sewed them together trying to create a rigged look. I also frayed parts of the material to give it a variety of textures. I think cut the shapes within the spine out of the material and appliqued parts down whilst top stitching the rest down.
After willingly holding my hands up and admitting my first ten designs were a total flop, I began to find my feet again when it came to developing the not so creative designs with my new research. Here are a few I decided to stick with. ( unbelievably upset the rain ruined my at the time favourite design.)
This is a design i created and never got round to finishing as it lead me no where else, I took the basic outline of an x-ray of the spine and broke it up into segmants, placing them where i though could compliment the body. Although I like the strapless with the detail across the bust I didnt feel It was strong enough to carry through.
Taking the same technique as I used for the strapless I decided to curve It down the actual spine, I personally like this design and shall consider it whilst picking my final design.
The original concept for this garment was to have a full sleeved, circle collared maxi dress made from fresh lycra so the model would appear naked, apart from the coloured cut outs of the spine down the front. This would be done in a similar way to what shishiko is created but done on a domestic machine. The colours showing through as such represent the ‘Gay Flag’ therefor combining sexual orientation and anorexia into one garment.
I decided that the garment was too restricted and wanted to do something with a bit more flare as sexual orientation and race is all to do with freedom. For this quick sketch I split the garment into two, a high waisted flared ankle length skirt and also a cropped one full sleeve top. I took the detailing from the design above and added this to the design. However i would choose to create the spinal detailing out of wadding on this piece rather than shishiko.
Unfortunately this is the design that ended up a disaster due to the rain. Regardless I think the basic design of it is a strong one. Keeping the tight bodycon top from previous designs and taking the flare highwaisted bottom also I decided to move away from the spine and bring in x-rays of the hand. I drew the bones in no specific order just where ever I felt they fitted, yet I was pleased with it the first time round.
With this design I decided to try incorporate the pelvis into the dress and also add detailing to the top half of the garment. I didnt feel this piece felt and decided to leave it how it was.
The design I am up to at the moment is a simple combination of two previous designs and is my favourite so far. I think that faux leather and silver organza would be a perfect combination for this particular dress.
Whilst continuing my thread I was lead to the spine, and bone structure of the Human body after looking at x-rays of butterflys. Her are a few brief images of a small sample of the work i have produce recently to do with the spine and hand xrays.
I achieved all of the above by using techniques such as collage, stenciling and sketching. I am happy with all of the work I have produced on this thread.
So for the preperation of my final shoot which I mentioned earlier on, I had to choose how to style my model based on Make-up and hair styles, too match the original images. So I decided to use red lipstick as the image was black and white I knew it would add a nice variety of contrast to the image.
I also had to keep the make-up natural but with a shinned cheek, to do this I ensured minimal foundation was worn, along with primer on the cheek to highlight it, and mascara to highlight the eye.
The only clothing i required for this shoot was a grey t-shirt which I had myself, I then cut a pair of leggings to make them into highwaisted knicker/shorts and added some gloss 30d tights.
The hair I curled the ends and brushed it back out to create a nice waved look. I think that I styled the model well and thats what help me gain the strong outcome.
So after spending the whole day independently manufacturing my dress I found myself at a stand still. After sewing my interfacing into the arm holes of my dress, the left hand side was perfect but somehow the right hand side (with a zip) was not smooth as one side is higher than the other. Looking back at my pattern allowed me to identify that I had actually made my back right hand side outer pannel longer by 3cm. I shall now begin to unpick the mistake and begin to correct it.
So after moving on from what turned out to be completly irrelevant to my thread, shells, leaf skeletons and butterfly’s I have finally moved my thread onto the human skeleton body, and began to look how anorexia is becoming its own culture. After stumbling across an image of a candle which looks similar to a spine i decided to try re-create it with my own interputation with wax. Here was the outcome
When it came down to deciding what painting to choose for my final re-creation in my styling brief I whittled my options down to two paintings which were both by the same Artist. That artist being Brenot who was a French Designer/ Artist from the 1930’s-1050’s. The first painting I came across was an oil one done on canvas, although I struggled to get the probs together in time for my shoot and therefore had to choose something less challenging.
From the images above you can see the samples i have created from the work i have created in my sketch book. using techniques such as, hand stitching, applique, shashiko and layering with basic machine stitch (zig zag & straight running stitch.)
I was happy as an overall with my textiles samples and feel I made use of all techniques I could have done.
To begin the patterning for this particular skirt I traced around a skirt block. making sure to mark all darts and notches, this was the ‘first draft.’ To add the yoke to the pattern this required a design line, which would be classed as an adaptation to the original pattern. Next i wanted to add a slight flare to the bottom of my skirt, I added a 3cm space which diagonally joined from the hip line to the hem.
I then traced the Yoke from my first draft, In order to add seam allowance i needed to close the darts as show below. I then added a 1.5cm seam allowance everywhere bar the centre front as it was cut on the fold.
After tracing round my first draft front skirt pattern to add a box pleat I then slashed up the line which had been created for the box pleat and added a 7cm pannel. I then traced this piece for the final time, adding a 1.5cm seam allowance once again everywhere but the centre front.
As the back of the skirt required a kick pleat I had to extend the hem line on the back piece and join this to the centre back line on a 45 degree angle. I then added a 1.5cm seam allowance to the entire piece, which would later on ensure my enough room to add my invisible zip.
When manufacturing this dress pattern pieces were cut on the straight grain, this means the fabric would not drape or hang in a flowing way, it would lye straight.
The first thing I did was attach both the front and back yokes correctly to the front and back of the skirt, by top stitching along the top of the yoke. I struggled top stitching where the zip was, even with the zipper foot. I then did a closed seam and overlocked the two together.
Next I overlocked down the centre back of both back pieces, and then inserted my invisible zip. The stitching the centre back seam at a 1.5 down to where the kick pleat began. still keeping the 1.5cm seam allowance whilst sewing i sewed the kick pleat together and over locked the entire thing together to create a closed seam.
As i had already ironed the interfacing to the facing I was ready to attach it to the front and back of my skirt. Using the same process i attached the yokes to the skirt also. Reducing bulk before continuing to overlock all visible edges left.
I then top stitched close to the edge of the facing to prevent it from rolling up, and holding it in place.
I then placed front and back piece right side to right-side and sewed down both outter edges together and then overlocked them also. This made the skirt a whole one piece instead of two seperates. To finish it off I then hemmed the skirt on a 2.5cm and top stitched for added strength.
